Seoul: Palaces, Street Food and Neon Nights

Seoul moves fast and rewards the curious — five-hundred-year-old palaces one block, a neon-lit café and a 24-hour street-food alley the next. This guide balances the two: Gyeongbokgung and the hanok village of Bukchon by day, Korean BBQ and Gwangjang Market by night, and a hike up Bukhansan or Namsan for the skyline. I cover the T-money card that runs the whole city, the BBQ-ordering etiquette, and a hop across to a buzzing night market. It's clean, safe, ridiculously well-connected and open very, very late.