The Amalfi Coast: Positano, Capri and Lemon-Scented Cliffs

The Amalfi Coast is Italy turned up to eleven — pastel towns stacked on cliffs over impossibly blue water, lemon groves, and roads that cling to the rock. This guide gets you the best of it without the traffic stress: base in Positano, take the ferries instead of the buses, do a boat day around Capri (and the Blue Grotto if the sea's calm), and walk the Path of the Gods high above the coast. There's Ravello's gardens, a long lemon-everything lunch, and the timing tricks that keep the crowds and the hairpin roads from wearing you out.