Mexico City & Oaxaca: Markets, Murals and Mezcal

Mexico City surprised me more than anywhere in years — the food alone is a reason to fly. This guide moves from CDMX's leafy Roma-Condesa streets, Frida's blue house and the Teotihuacán pyramids, down to Oaxaca, the country's culinary and craft heartland. You'll eat tlayudas and mole, taste mezcal straight from a palenque, swim at the mineral 'petrified waterfalls', and shop the Zapotec weaving villages. I've got the street-taco safety basics, the rideshare-vs-metro calls, and why you should always say yes to the market comedor lunch.